Fasika ~ Take 2

Fasika is the Amharic name for Easter.  This year, Ethiopian Easter (and Orthodox Easter) occurred one week after Easter celebrated throughout the rest of the world.  Fasika preparations began weeks (even months) before the actual holiday.  Many people (primarily Orthodox Christians) fasted for a couple of months prior to Fasika.  This also meant that many meat shops were not selling meat, leading to less protein for me and less energy.  Luckily, many people were not buying eggs, so those were never in short supply (supplementing the loss of protein from lack of meat)!  Also, cooking preparations began a week or two before the actual day of celebration.

There was also a long church service the Friday (Good Friday) prior to the Sunday of Fasika.  Services and way of celebrating varied a bit among Christians though based upon religious affiliation (Orthodox, Protestant, and Catholic).  The main difference was in how many services took place throughout the weekend, length of services, etc.  On the day of Fasika, many people went to church again in the morning.  Following church, the rest of the day was spent being with family and friends, eating cultural food (primarily duro wat; aka chicken with a thicker sauce), and drinking local drinks such as Tej and bunna (buna generally brought out with fandisha).  The celebrations continued the following day (Monday).  Similar to Sunday, there was lots of food.  Many people did not go to work that day and many students skipped school.  People slowly trickled back into work and school throughout the rest of the week.

Duro wat, iyb (Ethiopian Cheese), hard boiled egg, and injera

*Side note:

Duro ~ Amharic for chicken

Bunna ~ Amharic for coffee

Fandisha ~ Amharic for popcorn

Bunna!!

Fandisha & Bunna

I think that what really stuck out to me about Fasika is that this is the first major holiday in Ethiopia that I have now celebrated twice.  Fasika was the first holiday that I really celebrated in Ethiopia and was celebrated with my host family in Butajira during my first three months in country during pre-service training.  This thought really solidified the fact that I have now been living in Ethiopia for just over a year now and have one more year to go.  I was also realizing that this may or may not also be the last time I celebrate Fasika (at least Ethiopian Easter in Ethiopia).  I think that it is safe to say that in some ways, this was a very bittersweet day or two for me.

What I really enjoyed about Fasika, like so many other holidays in Ethiopia, was that many people invited me over to their homes and wanted to celebrate with me.  And again, like many other Ethiopian holidays, was fed a lot of food and buna… and I mean A LOT!!!  I knew that I ate a lot because I did not sleep at all that night and could not eat for a good day or two after the celebrations were concluded.  I really like Fasika because it is essentially a universal religious holiday (except a difference in date) that holds the same meaning for people all over the world.  In a country that is so different than the one I identify the most with, it can be so refreshing sometimes to be able to celebrate a holiday that is the same basically the same in both places.  Some things can be so good for me on a personal level when they bring a sense of normalcy to my life.  Some of my favorite experiences in Ethiopia have been ones like Fasika when I am able to experience something so unique to Ethiopia yet brings that sense of normalcy to my life.  Moments like these will be some of the moments that I remember and treasure the most of this overall experience in Ethiopia.

*Next Post Preview:  Shynunna Break #1 ~ The question asked was:  Can you tell us a story about one of your shybunna breaks?

Peace Corps Friends

One thing that I had heard about even before starting my Peace Corps experience from returned Peace Corps volunteers is that the volunteers that you serve with often become a second family.  I have gotten to know many of the volunteers within the group that I began service with as well as other volunteers in my area and nearby areas.  There are those volunteers that you connect with and become close to for various reasons, whether it be based on the time you spend and the connections you make during pre service training, how close you live to each other, or for any other numerous amounts of reasons.

These people, especially the ones whom you become closest with, will most likely become lifelong friends.  They will be some of the greatest and best friends I will have for the rest of my life because they are the only ones who truly and completely understand this 27-month experience that is living in Ethiopia.  They understand best what it is like to live as an American volunteer in Ethiopia, to learn the language, dealing with the harassment, and what it is like to hit highs and lows in this country. 

There are many people back in the states that know me pretty well.  Still, I think that in some ways no one but my Peace Corps friends will really know/understand me and what makes me who I am because of how my Peace Corps experience has and will continue to affect me.  They are the only ones that will understand this aspect of who I am.

They have been there right with me through all the highs and lows that I have experienced through the past year and I am right beside them supporting them through their highs and lows.  So despite how short this post is, I want to send a shout out to all my PC friends.  I am so thankful for you all and don’t know what I’d do without you!

* Just a few pictures posted below.  Unfortunately, was not able to find pictures of more people.

Sintaro

There is a small village that is located about 200 miles (seven hours) southwest of Addis Ababa called Sintaro.  Sintaro is located just south of Awassa in SNNPR [region] of Ethiopia.  Each region is also broken down into zones.  Sintaro is located in the Sidame zone of SNNPR and the working language here is Sidaminia.  Many older youth and adults know at least some Amharic because that is the working language of the whole region.  The population of Sintaro is around 1,500 and primary religion is Protestant Christianity.  There is a Catholic church in town for the small Catholic population.

Sintaro is located in a very hilly area that is absolutely beautiful.  Almost every home is a large hut made of wood, mud, and straw.  Other buildings are often made of cement and/or cinder block.  Some buildings such as the health post are government owned and often are a little sturdier than private buildings such as homes.

The church my parents attend in the states fund the primary school being built in Sintaro through a non-governmental organization in Ethiopia called Hope Enterprises.  There is also the option of sponsoring young children in Sintaro through hope Enterprises so that they are able to go to school.  When the school first opened two years ago, sponsorship began with five year olds to go to kindergarten.  Each new school year, there is a new class of students to be sponsored.  The older kids continue to be sponsored throughout primary school by the same sponsors.  Each new year as new kids start school, new people sponsor them or others will choose to sponsor an additional child.  The school has been open for about two years now, so there are currently two kindergarten classes and a first grade class.

This is one view of the school.  It is still in the works.

One of the many huts in Sintaro that are common to what many families live in.

A few times each year, a group of people (generally a group made up of members from my parents church) come to Ethiopia to visit the village.  The first week of February of this year, I went to Sintaro with my parents and four other women from the states to serve the community as a medical team.  Our primary goal was to assess the health of sponsored students at the primary school. 

When doing the medical assessments of the students, we first began by measuring their height and weight.  The older kids had been assessed a year prior to this because this was their second year of school.  It was very interesting to see the changes over the past year.  This was the first year of school for the younger kids, so this was the first time they were being checked.  After having height and weight measured, the kids were sent into another room where the general medical assessment was taken. 

During this assessment, we did a general check to make sure things such as skin, hair, teeth, etc. were in good condition.  We also asked the kids about any pain they were feeling.  Common things we noticed included, very dry and/or dirty skin, bad teeth, and complaints or pain in the general area of the digestive system.  For the older kids who had been checked the previous year, it was nice to be able to compare their assessments and see if there were any repeating symptoms.  We also gave each kid de-worming medicine.  Despite the church sending a medical team only once a year, it has been very cool to see how what we are doing has brought more awareness.  What the medical team did last year as well as the team this year really helped the health worker at the health post as well as the nurse at the primary school.  What we did helped to expand their knowledge base and help them learn what to keep an eye out for when concerning the health of the children.

In addition to our medical assessment, we had sponsors from my parents’ church write letters for the kids they sponsor.  As each child finished up their assessment someone in our group would sit down with them (in addition to a translator) and would read their letter with them.  It was such a cool experience to see the big grins spread across these kids’ faces as they opened up their letters.  All of these kids are very young and don’t necessarily understand the concept of sponsorship.  So it was also very cool to see some of these kids gain some understanding of whom these letters were from and what it means to be sponsored.

Our last day in Sintaro, we did hut visits.  We did not have time to visit homes of every child, so we focused on the sponsored kids of those who were part of our team.  My family sponsors to little girls in Sintaro, so my parents and I visited their homes.  It is such an amazing experience visiting these kids and getting to know them.  I can’t even begin to explain how wonderful it was to see how excited these two girls were as they led us to their homes.  We were able to see the homes they live in, meet their families, and have normal conversations. 

Experiences like this happen rarely in a lifetime.  I have learned that when an experience like this comes along, you have to take full advantage of it.  You have to learn all that you can.  Despite being in Sintaro for only four or five days, those kids taught me so much and even changed me a little bit (for the better I think).  At the beginning of the week, many of us got really sick, but were back on our feet and able to get back to work within a day.  Despite such challenges, I would not have changed anything about that week.  I have been learning, especially over the past couple of years, that the most rewarding experiences that will also be the most life changing are often the most challenging as well.  Such experiences have taught me to not give up easily when something becomes difficult.  I have learned that when something becomes difficult, you’ve got to keep pushing further and harder.  It is usually worth it in the end!

Shybunna Break!

First, I would like to begin with a quick Amharic lesson.  Shy in Amharic is tea and bunna is coffee.  I remember my first introduction to shybunna during my first three months (Pre-service training) in Ethiopia.  Each day of training, we generally would have one shybunna break in the morning and one in the afternoon.  I became very accustomed to having shybunna breaks every day for three months.  I missed having that scheduled time for shybunna during the day when first moving to site.  But I have found that I will work shybunna into my schedule when I miss and/or need it the most.

Shybunna is actually a very important part of Ethiopian culture.  Bunna in itself is an important part of Ethiopian culture and is in part a huge part in what makes Ethiopia unique.  Not only was it a common and normal part of the very structured schedule that was the first three months of my life in this new country but it is also a very normal part of every Ethiopians life.  It is very normal for people to take multiple breaks though out their works days to go to their favorite shybunna bet (tea/coffee house) and to take a break from work.  It is very common to take these shybunna breaks through out the day, even outside of working hours.

I wanted to use this post as an introduction to my idea for a Shybunna Break post series.  What I would like to do is take Shybunna breaks from my normal posts every once in a while and take the opportunity to do a Q&A.  But this will require some work put in by all of you regular readers!  In order to make this series of posts possible, I really do need your input.  Please take the time when possible to send me any questions you have for me via comments on the bottom of my posts, sending me an email, or leaving me a comment and/or sending me a message via Facebook.  You can ask me questions about virtually anything.  You can ask me about anything about what life for me like in Ethiopia is, how it is affecting or will potentially effect my life when I go back to the states, about Ethiopian culture, or anything else that strikes your fancy that you would like to ask me.  I am open to any questions that you shoot my way.

PLEASE send questions!  They don’t necessarily have to be questions.  If you have any general thoughts, comments, or topics that you want me to discuss, send my way too.  I need your help in order for these posts to work.  Thanks in advance for your input!

This is a jebina.  Traditional Ethiopian coffee is made in one of these.

Finding Strength Part #2

Here's a response to my last post because I have heard that some people back in the states might be worried.  I want to begin by saying that the experience of being a Peace Corps volunteer is like a roller coaster.  It has its ups and downs, highs and lows.  Recently, I hit a quick dip in my roller coaster after having a month long high when my parents visited and going to Tanzania.

Sometimes when I find myself in at a low point, it can be a little more difficult to find my strength.  I am realizing though that when I am at my low points, that's really when I am using most of my strength.  I learn from each low and high moment and grow stronger with every experience.

To all those in the states that worry, PLEASE try not to worry too much.  From start to finish of my Peace Corps service, there will be many moments in which I struggle.  But I have found ways in which to cope and have amazing people supporting me (both from the states and in country).

I know that this is a short post, but I wanted everyone to know that overall, I am doing well, learning and growing, and gaining an experience that I would never trade for anything.

Another post to follow soon!

Finding Strength

Recently, I just returned back to Ethiopia from a one-week vacation in Tanzania/Zanzibar.  It was such a great trip.  I went on a spice tour, saw tortoises, went snorkeling, swam with dolphins, and hung out on the beach.  It was great and all, but it was another story coming back to Ethiopia (if you want more on that trip, feel free to ask).  It was definitely a struggle coming back to some extent.  Despite how anticipated this struggle may have been, it has been difficult to deal with nonetheless.

Volunteers face struggles in various forms throughout their Peace Corps service.  It may be caused by different things, come at different times throughout service, and may hit at various levels and extremes.  Despite every volunteer struggling at various times throughout service, it looks different for every volunteer.  I know that I have already written a post on struggles and challenges, so this post will focus a little more on how I have dealt with it.

Every time I face a new struggle, it seems as though I have hit a low (maybe a low that I’ve visited before or a completely new low altogether).  With every low, I need to find my way out and with each turn must find strength to climb out.  Sometimes it is easy and sometimes it feels like one of the hardest things I have ever done.  But somehow, I have always seemed to find a way through it up to this point in my service.

The main thing I try to think of that gives me strength is why I am here in Ethiopia.  I think about my community and the people I am serving.  I remind myself that even just being present in this community makes a difference.  Sometimes it can be a little discouraging if I feel like I am not really doing a whole lot, but I always have to tell myself that I am making a difference to even one person by being present.

Especially during slow times in which I am not doing much, I can find strength in reminding myself of what I have already done and what I will be doing in the future for my community.  It can be challenging during slow times even when I think about future project because it is always possible that they might not happen.  With that being said, I will admit that finding strength is much easier said than done.

Some days, the only thing that gets me through is watching movies and reading books.  But even just bringing such a normal every day activity into my life (especially during such times) can help me get through.  Sometimes I have to remind myself of all the good things about my community and the people here and how I have grown because of this experience.

Many times, I find that my strength comes from friends and family who are supporting me.  Some volunteers don’t get much support from family and/or friends.  I am very lucky to have a large amount of support from both.  I probably would not have begun my service if not for all the support I received.  Even the friends I have made in country have helped me continue on with my service.  If it weren’t for them, it is very possible that I would not still be in Ethiopia today.  I will admit that I am extremely lucky.  Not every volunteer finds the support they need.  Honestly, some of the strongest people I know who are serving as Peace Corps volunteers don’t have very much support from people back in the states.  But they are able to find strength in other things.

Ultimately, what gives someone strength varies from person to person.  Whether that be support through other people, finding fulfillment in work, taking down time, or something else, something will work for everyone.  It just takes some time to find what works best for you and sometimes it isn’t the same thing in every situation.  For me, I have had to find what generally works best for me in finding strength and then finding other things that might work well in the case that I need other options.

Half way through my service and just coming back from vacation, I feel like I am struggling the most.  I have realized more so than ever how important it is to find ways to keep myself preoccupied, busy, and find to find the strength that I need to keep going.

Finding strength through all the amazing things I have learned about the Ethiopian culture

Finding strength through the strength and courage of other ferenji

Gena and Timkat

There were two major Ethiopian holidays that were celebrated during the month of January.  These two holidays are Gena and Timkat.  Both are major holidays that include celebrating, spending time with family and friends, and eating lots of food.  In this post I will talk a little about what each of these holidays celebrates and how I spent them.

Gena is the Amharic name for Christmas.  In Ethiopia, Christmas is celebrated on January 7^th.  The difference in date chosen to celebrate Christmas in this country is in part due to the Orthodox Christian religion as well as the Ethiopian calendar (which is 13 months, rather than 12).  Despite the difference in date, the meaning behind Christmas and the reason to celebrate is essentially the same.

In America, many people celebrate Christmas, even if they are not Christian per say.  In Ethiopia, almost all people are fairly if not very religious.  Most people in Ethiopia are Christian Orthodox, Protestant, or Muslim.   There are some who are also Catholic.  All listed above with the exception of Muslims celebrate Gena.  As per Ethiopian tradition when it comes to celebrating a holiday, the may be some sort of service to attend, family and friends will gather, and there will be a lot of food to eat.

I spent Gena in my town.  I was invited to the come to the house of one of the women who works for one of the NGOs I work with and who is also in the current English class that I teach.  My sitemate Ashley also came along.  We spent time with the woman who invited us over along with her mother, sister, and a couple family friends.  We ate some traditional food often eaten on holidays and drank buna (coffee) and tela (an Ethiopian version of beer).

Later in the day, my landlady invited me over for some food.  It turns out that it was her son Bobby’s birthday as well!  He turned six.  With that being said, there was also some cake involved.  Despite Ethiopian cake being drier and not quite as sweet as cake in the states, it was still good.

It was a very cool experience celebrating Christmas twice this year.  I was lucky enough to celebrate Christmas in December with some great people and then was able to experience Ethiopian Christmas.  It was a great way to celebrate my first Christmas in another country and away from my family.

Buna (coffee) ceremony

Traditional Ethiopian Christmas Tree :)

Christmas tree made of beer bottles.  I thought it was really creative!

Now it’s time to talk a little about Timkat!  Timkat celebrates two different things.  The first is celebrating the baptism of Jesus and the second is to celebrate the coming of the covenant of the ark.  It is a very unique holiday specific to Ethiopia and I was lucky enough to experience it with my parents because it happened to fall during the first week that they were here visiting.  Timkat actually spans over three days, January 18^th through the 20^th. 

The 18^th is the eve of Timkat.  On this day, there is a parade of people that converge and take the ark from the church to a designated place where it will spend the night.  On the 19^th, there is an early morning service celebrating the baptism of Jesus.  There is commonly a pool of water that is blessed by priests as holy water.  At the end of the service, many people rush to the pool of water.  In certain places, the pool is very large and people will actually jump in and swim for a while.  Each church has its own replica of the ark and in the afternoon, there are parades of people that will travel with many of these arks back to their designated churches.  On the third day of Timkat (the 20^th), there are more festivals as the few last arks travel back to the churches. 

I spent much of Timkat in a town called Lalibela.  Lalibela is a smaller town, but they did not fail in really celebrating the holiday.  It was a really amazing place to experience Timkat.  It is a very cool holiday to experience and if you are ever in Ethiopia during this time of the year, I would highly recommend experiencing the celebrations in Lalibela or Gondar.  That is a summary of what Gena and Timkat celebrate and how I celebrated.  If you have any questions about Gena, Timkat, or any other holidays, feel free to ask!

Parade of People with the Covenant of the Ark

Blessing of the Water